Necklines & Collars

Henley

A henley is a collarless pullover shirt with a short button or snap placket at the front, giving a dressier alternative to a crew without a full collar.

The henley swaps a bound crew collar for a plain neckband and adds a placket — usually 2 to 4 buttons or snaps — running 4 to 6 inches down the center front. That placket is typically reinforced with interfacing or a doubled layer of fabric so the buttonholes don't stretch, and it's stitched in before the neckband is applied, not after.

For a print shop, the placket sits exactly where a centered chest logo would normally go, so full-front and left-chest designs both have to route around it — buttons, buttonholes, and the placket's raised seam will show through a heat-pressed transfer and can even crack plastisol ink over time as the placket flexes. Comfort Colors' 1467 henley and Next Level's 3110 both put that placket dead center, forcing artwork either narrower and off to one side or split above and below the buttons.

Buyers spec'ing henleys for retail merch or upscale staff uniforms generally move chest branding to the sleeve or a narrow strip above the placket, and save full graphics for the back panel where there's no obstruction. Embroidery handles the placket edge better than screen print since stitches can work around the seam without cracking.

The mistake we catch most is a customer sending crew-neck chest art straight to a henley order — the placket eats right through the middle of a centered design, and by the time it's pressed there's no fixing it without a reprint.

Related terms

← All glossary terms