Knits & Weaves
Satin weave
Satin weave is a weave structure where long floating yarns cross few interlacing points, producing a smooth, glossy face used for varsity jacket bodies and jacket linings.
Satin weave gets its shine from long "floats," warp yarns that pass over four, five, even seven weft yarns before dipping under one, instead of the tight over-under crossing you'd see in a plain weave. Fewer interlacing points means more of each yarn's smooth surface faces outward, which is what bounces light back and gives satin weave its glossy, almost liquid look. The structure works on acetate, nylon, polyester, or silk filament yarn; satin describes the weave, not the fiber.
Walk down a rack of varsity and letterman jackets and the shiny sleeves and body panels are almost always satin weave, often over a melton wool base; jacket linings are cut from it for the same reason tailors line suit jackets with it, since the slick surface lets an arm slide in without dragging on the fabric underneath.
That same slickness works against standard printing methods; screen print and DTF adhesion is unreliable on a smooth satin face, which is why chenille letters, embroidered patches, and tackle-twill appliqué dominate varsity jacket customization instead of direct printing. If a design has to go directly onto satin, test adhesion on scrap first rather than assuming a method that works on cotton jersey will behave the same way.
Buyers frequently use "satin" to mean silk, but satin is a weave structure that can be built from polyester or nylon just as easily as silk. Asking a supplier for satin without specifying fiber content can get you a completely different hand-feel and price point than expected.